Growing Figs
Whether you’re in the market for a fig tree for health benefits, great taste, or beauty, you are not alone in your fandom. Past civilizations, as far back as Ancient Egypt, valued figs so much that they even used them as currency💰. With more than 700 named types, finding the perfect fig might seem like a daunting task 😅, but our carefully curated collection is always growing to offer the best of the best🏅varieties and versatility for your palate and purpose. Read on to learn more about how to choose the perfect fig varieties for you and how to care for them.
But first take our quick video detour that highlights the most interesting fig facts. And while you’re at it, don’t forget to like and subscribe 🙌.
Choosing a Variety by Purpose
There are many right way to eat a fig: fresh, dried, canned, as preserves, etc. Below are some characteristics that can help you select the best type for your purpose:
- Eye: The eye refers to the apex the bottom of the fruit (opposite of the stem side). The eye on some types of figs is closed (closed-eye), while on some types it’s slightly open (open-eye). One reason why that matters is that open-eye figs tend to spoil faster because moisture can enter in and cause rotting. That doesn’t mean open-eyed figs are bad; dry climates don’t have much of a problem. And in humid climates, it just means you generally harvest them before fully ripe. They also make great jams because you can preserve a large number before rot can set in.
- Harvest: Some figs fruit once per season (Smyrna figs), and some fruit twice a season (Common and San Pedro). Nearly all of the figs we offer at Wellspring Gardens are of the Ficus carica species, which usually produces two crops. The first crop (or breba crop in gardening lingo) comes in on the old wood and typically ripens in spring while the main crop emerges on new growth and is ready to harvest in late summer/fall. The benefits of breba crop figs is that you get to snack almost all year. More fruits in the season thereof—now that’s something we receive with thanksgiving.
- Yield: Mature trees can yield anywhere from 20 to 40 pounds of fruit per year. If you’re just eating fresh, any individual would be hard-pressed to polish off 40 pounds in a season, so the yield probably doesn’t matter and you’ll still be able to share with friends and your friends’ friends. But if you’re planning to can or make preserves, you might seek for a variety that has a large yield since the preservation processes shrink down the fruit.
Choosing a Variety by Flavor Profile
Perhaps the most important fig characteristic is what tastes good to you. Each has its own unique flavor--some very similar and some very different. Getting to know the subtle nuances of each really can only come from tasting, because there are only so many ways you can describe delicious sweetness. So plant several types and let your taste buds lead the way. At the least, try one from each of the three flavor profiles to see which speaks to your palate.
Figs are grouped into three basic flavor profiles: honey, sugar, and berry. If the flavor is in between those categories, some figs are categorized as a combination of multiple flavor profiles (i.e., sugar berry, honey sugar, etc.)
- Honey figs typically have light-colored skin and golden fruit that tastes like melons and honey.
- Sugar figs usually have dark skin and brown or amber pulp that is intensely sweet like dried fruit.
- Berry figs have varying skin colors but generally have red/purple fruit that is tart and resembles other berry fruits, such as strawberries and raspberries.
Honey Figs
| Variety | Tree Size | Fruit Size | Facts |
| Kadota | 15-30’ | Medium |
Great for canning |
| Lattarula | 15-20’ | Medium | Italian, compact |
| LSU Gold | 12-15’ | Large | Large yield |
| White Marseilles | 10-12’ | Medium | Extra cold hardy, Thomas Jefferson’s favorite |
| Yellow Long Neck | 4-8’ | Large | Pronounced neck |
Sugar Figs
| Variety | Tree Size | Fruit Size | Facts |
| Brown Turkey | 10-30' | Medium | Everbearing |
| Celeste | 10-15' | Small | Great in humid areas |
| GE Neri | 6-10' | Extra Large | One of the largest figs |
| Letizia | 8-15' | Medium | Italian heirloom, extra cold hardy |
| Little Ruby | 5-6' | Small | Compact, extra cold hardy |
| LSU Purple | 8-12' | Medium | Large yield |
| Magnolia | 10-15' | Large | Very hardy, most popular canning fig in the South |
| Texas Everbearing | 10-15' | Medium |
Nearly seedless, a type of Brown Turkey with a longer season |
Berry Figs
| Variety | Tree Size | Fruit Size | Facts |
| Beer's Black | 12-20' | Medium | One of the best for eating |
| Black Mission | 15-30' | Large | Large yield |
| Brown Turkey | 10-30' | Medium | Extra cold hardy |
| Chicago Hardy | 15-20' | Medium | Extra cold hardy, vigorous |
| Desert King | 4-8' | Large | Great for the Northwest |
| Fignomenal | 2-3' | Small | Compact: grow figs indoors |
| Ischia | 10-15' | Small | Adapted to the West coast |
| Olympian | 4-8' | Extra Large | Extra cold hardy, award-winning |
| Violette de Bordeaux | 6-10' | Medium | Compact, used for bonsais |
Fig Culture Overview
- Growth habit: Tend to grow bushy
- Preferred climate: Mediterranean/dry
- Light: Full sun
- Spacing: 10-15 feet apart
- Soil: Well-drained, partially dry
- Watering: 3-4 times per week
- Fertilization: 20-20-20 once a week during the growing season
- Pollination: Self-fertile
- USDA hardiness zones: 7-10 (most)
- Dormancy: Go dormant and shed their leaves in fall/winter
- Winter care: Water less, protect from extreme temperatures
- Fruiting and harvesting: 1-3 years
- Common pests: Mealy bugs, scale, and nematodes. Open-eye varieties are often feasts for birds and insects, so harvest early!
- Toxic to pets? Yes
Growth Habit
When you first receive a fig, it may seem like a twig with no potential. But keep faith in your baby plant--it will grow. Its twig-like appearance is just a sign of its superior propagation method: tissue culture (plant world lingo for a clone of a mother plant). Among many benefits of this propagation method, one is that tissue culture plants are more disease-resistant. Another is that tissue culture plants fruit much faster than those grown by seed or from cuttings.
Figs tend to grow bushy and branch out as they mature. No need to prune or cut back. Fruiting will not be adversely affected by multiple shoots.
Preferred Climate
Figs are Mediterranean plants, so they prefer hot, dry climates. That doesn't mean you're out of luck if you live in a humid place; we are in the heartland of humidity (Central Florida) where many figs abound. it just means you have to battle fig rust (a mild fungal issue that results in little brown spots on fig leaves). It is more of a cosmetic issue and is not fatal to the tree. Help avoid this problem by keeping the areas under the tree free of leaf debris and keeping the leaves from getting wet when watering. Copper fungicide sprays (like Bonide and Serenade for organic gardening) can help during the rainy season, too.
Light
Figs thrive in full sun. In shade, they won't grow as tall or fruit as readily as they will in full sun. Choose the sunniest part of your yard to give your fig its most natural lighting environment. If planting indoors, provide the sunniest spot available and consider using grow lights. Figs need 6-8 hours of full sun.
Spacing
For full-size figs, provide 10-15 feet in between each. For dwarf varieties, provide at least 8 feet of space between. If planting near your home or a building, provide 10 feet of space between the plant and the structure. Figs do prefer to be planted close to a concrete slab or structure because it helps avoid nematode problems.
Soil
Figs prefer well-drained soil so they don't become waterlogged. We find two parts peat to one part perlite works well.
Watering
Water your fig 3-4 times per week while getting established, which will allow it to dry out somewhat between waterings. Figs don't tolerate excessively wet soil, but they do need ample moisture during fruiting.
Fertilization
All fertilizers contain three primary nutrients: (Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Figs thrive with a balanced ratio of 20 Nitrogen (N), 20 phosphate (P2O5), and 20 potash (K2O) along with other micronutrients. We’ve got you covered with our Fig Fuel, which contains that exact ratio.
We recommend fertilizing every 7-14 days in the growing season (spring/summer). Once the cooler temperatures of fall and winter hit, you can take a break from fertilizing as your plant goes dormant. Without sufficient fertilization, you may find your fig never fruits, so be sure to satiate its appetite for nutrients regularly.
Pollination
USDA Hardiness Zones
Can I grow figs where I live? What if I live in a cold place? No problem. Figs can grow in many climates with a little extra TLC and you can even grow them in your home.
On our website, we list each plant’s USDA hardiness zone. The U.S. Department of Agriculture created the hardiness map to help gardeners identify the areas in which plants tend to grow well based on past average temperatures. On the USDA's site, you can enter your zip code to identify your hardiness zone. Most figs are hardy in zones 7-10 (coldest temperature = 0 degrees Fahrenheit) and some even down to zone 6 (coldest temperature = -10 degrees Fahrenheit). If you live outside the zone of your fig of choice, grow it in a pot indoors. There are many great varieties that can be grown in your home; one of our faves is the compact 2-3 foot Fignomenal fig.
Goes Dormant
Fall sweater weather, the scent of cinnamon brooms, and the flavor of pumpkin spice emanating from the kitchen all signal the beautiful autumn leaves 🍁 we all love turning from green to a crispy orange and yellow; we know that although the leaves have fallen, the trees are still alive and well; they’re just hibernating (in plant terms, going dormant) until the spring season brings a wellspring of new life. That means as long as you keep them protected from freezing, your fig trees will still be alive and well through the fall and winter but won't grow much. And they will shed all their leaves because they are deciduous (the garden term for plants that shed leaves annually).
Patience is the best test so your fig remains undisturbed while strengthening its roots; but you can double check that your plant is just dormant and not dead with a couple quick tests:
- Give the stem a gentle push and if it doesn’t snap in half, then it’s alive and well.
- Make a very tiny scratch on the stem with your finger to see if it’s green underneath.
- Check for a bud on top. Many of our figs ship without leaves, even in the growing season, because they are injury prone. Seeing a bud on top is a sure sign it’s alive and well.
Winter Care
Compare your city’s USDA plant hardiness zone with the plant’s to see how much cold your fig can endure 🥶. If you live outside the zone your plant is listed for, you’ll want to help it keep warm. Here are a few ways to get your fig through those chilly temps:
- Mulch well and cover.
- Plant in a pot so you can bring indoors or on an enclosed patio right next to the house.
- Use grow lights indoors or place next to a window.
Your fig won't need as much water while it's dormant. Water lightly 2-3 times per week, allowing it to dry out somewhat between waterings.
Learn more in our Overwintering Guide.
Fruiting and Harvesting
It will take regular fertilizing, but figs can fruit within 1 to 3 years of planting. If you are growing an open-eye variety, it's best to harvest early before the fruit splits and gets picked at by birds or before moisture sets in and causes it to rot.
You’ll know it’s harvest time when the fruit stem is hanging/drooping from the branch and the fruit is soft. Still not sure? Try snapping one off. If it oozes white liquid, it’s not ripe yet.
Common Pests
To keep nematodes at bay, plant in a fertile, loamy soil rather than a sandy soil and mulch well with organic material.
Open-eye varieties are often feasts for birds and insects, so remember to harvest early!
Toxic to Pets
Fig trees and their sap are toxic to pets so you’ll want to beware about planting figs around your four-legged friends. Side note: the milky latex that emits when you cut back leaves or branches can irritate human skin, too, so wear gloves if cutting anything off a fig.
FAQs
- Why do the leaves have brown, rusty spots? Figs do best in a mediterranean climate marked by hot, dry summers and low humidity. In humid or rainy areas, figs are subject to fig rust. While rarely fatal to the tree, and only indirectly affecting the fruit, the appearance of fig rust isn't desirable. Help avoid this problem by keeping the areas under the tree free of leaf debris. Copper fungicide sprays (like Bonide and Serenade for organic gardening) can help during the rainy season, too.
- My fig tree has no leaves. Is it dead? Most likely it is alive and well. Fig leaves are injury prone, so we often ship them without leaves. On top of that, in fall/winter, figs go dormant (hibernate essentially) and are deciduous (shed their leaves). Check out our Timelapse to see just how quickly fig leaves can grow again.
- Why do the leaves not look like fig leaves leaves? Immature fig leaves differ from mature ones, so your fig may not have lobes yet. Just give it time and the leaves will evolve into that classic fig look. The picture below shows two leaves from the same fig tree--one that's immature (right) and one that is mature (left).
How Should I Care for My Fig After It Arrives?
Please give your Fig a little TLC after its journey through the mail 📬. Here are a few steps we recommend:
- Unwrap immediately to provide fresh air to the plant and soil.
- Wait a few days before exposing to full sunlight so your plant can adjust after being in a dark box for several days.
- Always protect from heat and cold because temperature extremes can be stressful or deadly for plants.
- Water. Your baby plant may be parched and even a little wilted but thorough hydration will help it recover.
- Grow out in a larger pot to increase your chances of success—i.e., a quarter gallon—Then transplant to the ground or the next pot size up once the roots fill to the bottom. This will help the plant get sufficient water and nutrients directly to the roots.
Learn more in our After Arrival Care Guide.
What Size Pot Should I Use?
We highly recommend growing your baby plant out in a larger pot 🪴 to increase your chances of success
You don’t have to repot immediately, but the sooner you do, the more room it has to grow.
Here are some general repotting tips:
- Start with a pot that's 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the starter-sized pot it came in. A pint or quart would be great.
- Use a good general potting mix or make your own. We find two parts peat to one part perlite works well for most plants, allowing it to be well-drained but still moist.
- Transplant to the ground or the next pot size up once the roots fill to the bottom.
Learn more in our Repotting Guide.
Shop Figs
Start or continue growing your fig collection with Wellspring Gardens.
Happy planting! 🪴
